Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Fine Dining Review: Marque vs. Est (Sydney, Australia)

Marque vs. Est.

Marque and Est. are two of Sydney's premier fine dining establishments who have been bestowed the highest possible rating of "3 hats" by SMH good food guide 2011. I had a memorable meal at Est. few years ago and I've been wanting to go back since I moved back to Sydney. Marque, on the other hand, has been on a meteoric rise in the Sydney food scene and is  currently Sydney's "Restaurant of the Year". Marque's reputation has also grown globally with its recognition in the San Pellegrino World's Best Restaurant List and also being awarded the "Break Through Award".

I had the privilege to dine in these two top-notched restaurant with one month apart & I thought why not review the two heavy weights together in one post! :)

It was unfortunate that my camera was not able to capture shots under low lighting so I only have a couple of grainy shots to share in this post. (time for a new camera!)

Marque *

The degustation menu was our unanimous choice to experience what Marque's has to offer. The amuse bouche of Alain Passard's tribute of the chaud-froid egg was stunning visually. A hot-cold experience in the form of a runny egg with delicate flavours of (presumably) sherry vinegar, cream and spices was indeed interesting and has become chef Mark Best's signature dish. Grissini to enhance textural play enhanced the overall experience. Despite the amazing techniques applied, I thought this was slightly underwhelming. 


The entire degustation course was a showpiece of Mark Best's high level of technical abilities and creativity. Nonetheless and surprisingly, we did not find any memorable and off the charts dishes. Each dish was cooked to near perfection technically but individual elements in  most dishes did not marry perfectly. There were no memorable highlights to mention except the wonderful oyster topped with truffles on a thick slice of gently cooked bacon. The matching wines by the glass, instead, was the highlight of the night. The deco and atmosphere was generic, and the service was good without being exceptional. The servers should take their time introducing and explaining each dish clearly....why bother if not doing it properly and professionally?

For those unfamiliar with molecular gastronomy and the heights that have already been achieved elsewhere, Marque is a real treat - breathtaking execution of modern cooking techniques. However, it lacked the wow factor in the domain that mattered most - taste.

Of note, Marque's Friday Prix Fix Lunch menu is a steal at $45 per person. I would definitely head there if I have extended lunch hours.

Some shots taken in Marque:

Oyster on bacon, topped with black truffles

Dessert is served.....

Fine Dining Rating (Marque): 15/20

Est.***

We have fond memories of Est. having had a great meal 4 years ago.....before our global gastronomic adventure. The restaurant is impressive: expansive, high ceilings and luxury columns.

Again, we opted for the degustation menu and matching wines. We were not disappointed. Seafood proteins were particularly handled with finesse - the Moreton bay bug, scampi, steamed murray cod were precisely cooked to absolute perfection. The only times we had such perfectly executed seafood were at Alain Ducasse at Plaza Athenee (Paris, France) and Colborne Lane (Toronto, Canada). The pan-roasted lamb rib eye was the minor disappointment - tender but the cut was lack in depth of flavour (a compromise, perhaps). Deserts were on the mark - perfectly risen cherry souflle with thoughtfully matched pinor noir rose sorbet.

Roasted boned squab pigeon, grilled fig, almond cream, hazelnut picada and some pan juices - brilliant!

Cherry souffle with pinot noir sorbet

The wine list was comprehensive and the matching wines very good. The highly choreographed service was truly world-class and very closely matched, in my opinion, the perfect service we received at Alain Ducasse at Plaza Athenee Paris and Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. The celebrity viewing was complementary (The Edge from U2 was dining only 2 tables away). 

Fine Dining Rating (Est.): 18/20

By Gastronomic G.

Rating explained:

Scores 18 to 20 = *** (3 stars) = World class and close to perfection
Scores 16 to <18 = ** (2 stars) = An exceptional and special dining experience
Scores 15 to <16 = * (1 star) = Very good to great dining experience
Scores 13 to <15 = Good but not memorable
Scores 10 to <13 = Acceptable
Scores <10 = Are you sure you want to eat here?

Sunday, February 13, 2011

Cheap Eats Review: Din Tai Fung (Wisma Atria, Orchard Road, Singapore) & Prelude to Tetsuya's Waku Ghin

Din Tai Fung *

During our brief visit to Singapore, we visited the Marina Bay area which is now the site of architectural monuments such as the Marina Bay Sands. This complex is also home to various outposts of celebrity chefs; the ones worth mentioning and in our shortlists include Tetsuya Wakuda's Waku Ghin and Guy Savoy's self-titled restaurant.

Marina Bay Sands

Waku Ghin & Guy Savoy in Marina Bay Sands - reserved for future trips
We, instead, headed to Orchard Road for window shopping and came across two Din Tai Fung restaurants. From its humble beginnings in Taiwan, Din Tai Fung has become an international success with stores in China, Hong Kong, Japan, across South East Asia, Australia and USA. Food critics have also warmly received Din Tai Fung; the Michelin guide awarded 1 Michelin star to a DTF in Hong Kong - a real surprise, to be honest.


The menu lists a long list of Shanghai style dishes.....including the renowned "Xiao Long Bau" a.k.a. small steamed soup dumplings. We were seated in front of a line of the pastry chefs preparing the dough pastry and various dumplings. Each pastry is hand-made and randomly weighed during the pastry making process to ensure consistency and quality control. It's no wonder DTF's success is based on the xiao long bau. 

Precisely weighed dough size for xiao long bao
The xiao long baus are perfectly bite/mouthful size. The dough is semi-transparent enough to tease one with large volume of "soup" within each dumpling. The dough is also firm yet thin and silky smooth, and tough enough to never tear or break before you get your hands on the wonderful "soup" within the dumpling.



The xiao long bao itself merits 2 stars. The other dishes we tried were executed well with no major flaws - simple and clean tasting, but not headline grabbing - typical of classic Shanghai style cuisine, unlike other regional Chinese cuisine.

Appetizer - Peanuts with seaweed
Appetizer - Lotus root salad
Shrimp & pork dumpling
Noodle soup with fried pork chop
Dry noodles with mushroom & mince meat - very umami
Even the desserts (mango pudding & almong tofu) and drinks (sweet and sour prune drink) were wonderful. Our 15 minute queue was worth the wait, particularly when the queue is looking more like a 45 minute one as we leave the place fully satisfied....so satisfied, we forgot our order of chicken soup had failed to arrive!

Rating for Cheap Eats: 15/20

By Gastronomic G.

Rating explained:
Scores 18 to 20 = *** (3 stars) = World class and close to perfection
Scores 16 to <18 = ** (2 stars) = An exceptional and special dining experience
Scores 15 to <16 = * (1 star) = Very good to great dining experience
Scores 13 to <15 = Good but not memorable
Scores 10 to <13 = Acceptable
Scores <10 = Are you sure you want to eat here?

Friday, February 4, 2011

Cheap Eats Review: Hing Loong Taiwanese Noodles (Melaka, Malaysia)

Hing Loong

Located at Jalan Bachang, Hing Loong is famous for its Taiwanese style noodles especially its spicy Beef Noodles and deep fried Pork Chop Noodles, and has spawned branches in Melaka & Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Tong brought me here years back and it left a reasonable impression on me then; she thought that meant a repeat visit was in order whilst all I had was chicken rice balls in my mind! There are hardly any empty tables in this restaurant that solely sells these Taiwanese noodle dishes.

We ordered the house specialty spicy beef noodles which was fairly mediocre. The lightly chinese herbal flavoured soup is spiced up with Schezhuan peppercorns and (likely) dried chillies. Despite tender pieces of beef floating around the soup, there was lack of beefy goodness expected. The fresh flat noodles did not marry well with the soup - neither clinging on the soup nor absorbing it. 

Spicy Beef Noodle (Dry)
The deep fried Pork Chop Noodles was slightly better. Served with a flavoured soy based sauce, the noodles felt at home.....the deep fried pork chop was like any other deep fried pork chop. Not sure what the fuss is about!

Of note, the original old "chef" is no longer preparing the noodles. Instead a young man puts the dishes together with waiter(s) cum line cooks who portion sauces and meats for each order. Chicken rice balls, anyone?


Cheap Eats Rating: 10/20

By Gastronomic G.

Rating explained:
Scores 18 to 20 = *** (3 stars) = World class and close to perfection
Scores 16 to <18 = ** (2 stars) = An exceptional and special dining experience
Scores 15 to <16 = * (1 star) = Very good to great dining experience
Scores 13 to <15 = Good but not memorable
Scores 10 to <13 = Acceptable
Scores <10 = Are you sure you want to eat here?